Cakes – Part II

January 1st, 2011

The second half of cakes class seemed a little easier than the first half. I got a lot more comfortable with making smooth sides and a smooth top with a nice crisp edge. I also got better at slicing my cakes so that they were even. I got used to my instructor’s way of teaching. Every instructor, I’ve learned is different. And you have to figure out what things you must do EXACTLY as they say, and what things you can do differently because it just doesn’t matter.

Cheesecake - The first cake of the second half of the semester was a NY-style cheesecake topped with fruit. This cheesecake was creamy and dense, and baked in a cake ring on top of a layer of graham cracker crust. This cake required no waterbath, but was baked at a pretty low temperature. I learned that the trick to mixing cheesecakes is to not overmix, and to make sure that ALL of your ingredients are at room temperature (including the cream cheese). If the cream cheese is not at room temperature, it takes more mixing for it to smooth out in the batter. Overmixing causes a cheesecake to crack. We mixed ours by hand instead of with a mixer, to ensure that we did not overmix. This was delicious if you like rich, creamy and dense cheesecakes. It was happily devoured by my trivia friends, and then by the restaurant staff who were more than happy to see that we had left the rest of the cheesecake for them. I don’t have any pictures of this one because I was in a rush to leave class so that I could make it in time for trivia.

The good side of a carrot cakeCarrot Cake - This was the only bad cake that I made in class all semester. I think that the Cake God was trying to tell me that I had already reached my cake quota for the week, or even for the day. The night we decorated this cake was also my birthday. Due to some coworker miscommunication, I received 2 birthday cakes that day at work. I ate 2 pieces for lunch (a piece of each cake), and then another piece before I left for class (which was my dinner). Cake for lunch and dinner on your birthday is always allowed, and highly recommended. I’m not sure what exactly went wrong with this cake, but I’m blaming it all on the cream cheese icing. The teacher warned us to work fast or else our icing would not stay cold, and would get runny. I, apparently, did not work fast enough (even though I was faster than everyone else, and none of theirs seemed to melt). So my icing was not very cold, and the layers of cake kept shifting as I would try to ice the sides. Once I finally got straight sides, it started dripping down off of the sides of the cake. Several trips to the freezer later, and I finally gave up. I threw some nuts on the sides and got to decorating the top with the carrots. I’m very proud of how my carrots turned out, not quite so proud of the leaves though. I got my worst grade on this stupid cake. I was so mad that I didn’t take this cake home, therefore I never tried it. I can’t say whether or not it was a good carrot cake recipe. I tried to take a picture that didn’t show the melting sides.

German chocolate cakeGerman Chocolate Cake - I really love German Chocolate Cake, and this cake did not disappoint. We were required to put white buttercream on the sides of the cake, and then coat it in cake crumbs. If I had any say in it, I would have preferred a chocolate frosting on the outside of the cake. The filling and cake was delicious. I ended up eating around the buttercream sides. This one got a lot of “oooos” and “ahhhhhs” from the coworkers. I will admit, it was pretty.

Red Velvet CakeRed Velvet Cake - I was very disappointed in this cake. It looked beautiful but tasted like cardboard. And the instructor made us ice it in buttercream instead of cream cheese frosting. I don’t claim to be an expert in red velvet cake, but I do know that cake isn’t supposed to taste like cardboard. And I’m pretty sure I prefer the cream cheese frosting instead of buttercream. But I did learn that Piggly Wiggly sells red food coloring in 1/2-quart containers, so next time I want to experiment with red velvet cakes, I know where to get some red food coloring.

Square CakeSquare Cake - This was the last cake before we had to make our own cake for our final exam (more on that one in the 3rd part of this cakes post). It isn’t easy to make crisp vertical corners on a square (or rectangular) cake, but I think I managed to do an okay job. And we learned how to make rose buds and leaves out of marzipan. We all agreed that this cake looked like the kind of cake you would make for a grandma, so we put a grandma name on it.

Cakes – Part 1

December 27th, 2010

I meant to blog about my cakes class somewhat regularly throughout the semester. I never seemed to be able to find the time. I also took another class that met on Saturdays from 8-2, so it seemed like a lot of my free time was gobbled up from classes. This next semester I’m only taking one class, so hopefully I will have a little more free time. I felt like the class was broken up into 2 categories: cakes I’ve never heard of or made, and then the classics that we did the last half of the semester.

Lingon Berry Linzer TorteRaspberry Linzer Torte - The first cake we made wasn’t really a cake, at least not in my opinion. But I guess it is a good thing to make for all of the very-un-experienced students in the class who had rarely (if ever) baked anything more than cupcakes from a box. There was quite a range of skill level among my classmates. The Linzer Torte has a shortbread crust with hazlenuts in it, and a woven-like top made with the same shortbread that is on the bottom. The middle usually spread with raspberry jam. I made this at home the following weekend for a party, and used up the rest of my lingonberry jam that I had bought in Sweden. We also learned how to use a cake ring instead of a cake pan. We use cake rings in class for all of our cakes. I like them better because you don’t have to flip the cake upside down to get it out of the pan after baking. That is always a stressful moment for me.

Apple TorteApple TorteApple Pie Cake DisasterApple Torte - We pretty much called all of the cakes that we made in the first half of the semester “tortes”. According to wikipedia, a torte is a cake that is made with eggs, sugar, and nut flour instead of regular flour. According to my cakes instructor, a torte is just a fancy name for “cake”. The apple torte was more like an apple-pie-cake. It had a shortbread crust and sides, a layer of vanilla chiffon genoise (fancy name for a sponge cake), and then an apple pie filling topped with more shortbread. The apple pie filling was made with instant modified starch, which is a thickener like cornstarch, but it is a cold-binding starch, which means that you don’t have to cook the starch for it to thicken. It just thickens with cold liquid (in this case, the water we used to blanch the apples with). I think that this torte looked pretty and I liked how it tasted. The shortbread crust was a little sweeter than ordinary apple pie crust. The torte was built and baked in the cake ring, and then the ring was lifted off once it had cooled. I made this again for Thanksgiving (one for each Thanksgiving destination), and the second torte wasn’t baked all the way and the sides collapsed when I unmolded it. OOPS!

Fruit TorteFruit TorteLemon TorteFruit Torte - And so began what seemed like the never-ending vanilla chiffon genoise cake. This cake layer was used in several of our cakes. Chiffon means “light and airy” and genoise means “sponge cake”, so this was a light and airy vanilla flavored sponge cake. It is made by whipping the egg yolks to full volume, then folding in the dry ingredients, then folding in the egg whites (that have been whipped to stiff peaks). The egg whites give it most of it’s rising power. For the fruit torte, we also made pastry cream to go between the layers of cake. Then we learned how to cut fruit to decorate the top. The sides were coated with some sliced almonds.

Lemon Torte - This cake was one of my most favorite in terms of the flavor and combination of elements. It was a vanilla chiffon genoise with lemon curd layers. The middle “cake” layer was a japonaise layer, which is a meringue with almonds that is piped into a round layer and then baked. When put in the cake, it is a nutty, crunchy meringue, but after sitting overnight, the japonaise becomes soft. It provides a nice nutty flavor in the cake and also a nice change of texture. The cake was coated in whipped cream. In school, when heavy cream is whipped and sugar added, it is called Chantilly Cream. It can be made with either granulated or powdered sugar, and I have learned that each chef has a strong preference for one or the other. My cakes instructor would only let us use granulated sugar. She pretty much hates powdered sugar for anything because powdered sugar has small levels of cornstarch in it to prevent it from getting clumpy due to moisture. She feels that she can taste the cornstarch flavor when powdered sugar is used. Anyway, back to the chantilly cream. When you coat a cake in whipped cream and try to smooth the sides, every movement you make is essentially whipping the cream more. If you overwhip (or overwork) chantilly cream, it starts to look grainy, and if you continue to whip, it turns into butter. So with this cake, the amount of smoothing of the sides and top was limited to just a few passovers with the pallete knife, otherwise the cake would look ugly. My cake was the one in the front. The ones in the back had begun to be overworked, and they weren’t able to smooth out the sides and top as much.

Strawberry Whipped Cream CakeStrawberry Torte - This was the coworkers’ favorite cake. Layers of vanilla chiffon genoise, chantilly cream, and strawberry filling (sliced strawberries and fruit punch thickened with instant modified starch). Coated in chantilly cream and decorated with strawberry slices. My cake came out a little crooked, and my chantilly cream was overworked a little so it has a small grainy look to the sides.

Crunch Torte - I don’t have any pictures of this cake because I skipped class the day that we assembled this cake. Class met twice a week, Monday and Wednesday evening. On Monday we would bake the cakes and prepare any filling or toppings. Then on Wednesday we would assemble and decorate the cakes. Tommy and I went to a beer dinner instead, and it was delicious. The cake was vanilla chiffon layers with chantilly cream and almond nougat for the filling. It was coated in chantilly cream and then the almond nougat was sprinkled on the sides and top. It sounds crunchy and boring, so I was more than happy to miss this one.

Black Forrest Cherry CakeBlack Forrest Cherry Torte - This was the first week that we didn’t have to make vanilla chiffon genoise. Instead, we made a CHOCOLATE chiffon genoise. The Black Forrest Cherry torte had chocolate cake, whipped cream and cherries for the filling. The cherries have to be sour cherries in order for it to be a black forrest cherry cake, and the cake layers also had cherry brandy brushed onto them. The chantilly cream that the cake was coated in was spiked with cherry brandy too. Then we coated the sides and top with shaved chocolate. This cake tasted pretty good but I was surprised at the amount of coworkers who didn’t like the cherry-chocolate combination.

Chocolate Torte - This was the last of the cakes that were called tortes. I’m not sure why I don’t have any pictures of this cake. It is probably because it was devoured rather quickly. It was a big bundle of chocolatey goodness: devil’s food chocolate cake and layers of chocolate chantilly cream, coated in more chocolate chantilly cream. The only tricky part of making this cake was in the chocolate chantilly cream. Melted chocolate was combined with the whipped cream. However, if all of the chocolate was added to the cold chantilly cream, the chocolate would solidify due to the cold, and you would end up with little chocolate chips in the chocolate chantilly cream. Insetad, a small amount of chantilly was added to the melted chocolate and stirred until combined. This slowly brought the temperature of the chocolate down so that when added to the rest of the chantilly, it would not solidify. Anyway, this cake was a good way to finish the first half of the semester.

My Thanksgiving disaster

November 25th, 2010

This is what it was supposed to look like:


This is what it turned out to look like:

This is what I transformed the disaster into: a twice-baked apple pie.

Cinnamon Twists

September 29th, 2010

Rainy days at home make me want to cook a pot roast or some soup. They also make me want to bake. I’m relaxing today though, so I decided to write about food instead of making some.

I started making these one weekend morning before I set out for a morning run. It seemed like a good thing to do with a run on the morning schedule for several reasons:

1. I could run during the first dough-rising period, and shower during the second dough-rising period. This also eliminates the inpatient anticipation that I always have when making cinnamon rolls (or twists) in the morning. I like the yeast-raised dough the best, but yeast takes its time, which requires hungry, salivating patience.

2. While running, I could think about eating cinnamon rolls. This makes me run faster and better, because I’m not continuously thinking about how much I want to quit running.

3. I could scarf them down with no regrets, because I had already run off all of the calories. In fact, I’m pretty sure I needed to REPLACE some calories that I burned off during running.

I like this enriched dough because it is easy to make (some enriched doughs have a lot of butter or other fats that make them hard to work with). I also like my cinnamon roll dough to be rich in flavor, but not really sweet. I like to pour on some sweet sweet icing after they are baked, and if the dough is too sweet, then I get overwhelmed with sweetness and don’t enjoy them as much.

I forgot to take pictures of how to cut the roll and braid it to make the twists, but hopefully I will be able to describe it well enough anyway. If it is too confusing, then just cut them into rolls instead of the twist.

I apologize for the strange weight measurements. I converted this from a classroom-sized recipe that made 16 pounds of dough. This recipe makes 2 twists, or about 20 cinnamon rolls.

Cinnamon Roll Dough

Ingredients
1.56 ounces fresh yeast
7.31 ounces milk
18 ¼ ounces bread flour
2.19 ounces sugar
4 ½ ounces butter
1 egg
⅛ ounce salt

butter, at room temperature (1 stick should be good, depending on how much butter you like to smear on the dough)

cinnamon sugar, about 1/2 cup

Preparation
1. Combine all ingredients together in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook and mix for 6 minutes.

2. Cover and let rise for 20 minutes.

3. Punch down and let rise for another 20-40 minutes, until doubled in size.

4. Take half of dough and roll out to a rectangle, about 12 inches wide by 9 inches long. Do the same thing with other half once you have finished with the first half.

5. Brush all but the top 1/2 inch with softened butter. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Brush the top edge with water to help seal. Roll up tight, keeping the edges square. Seal the edge.

6a. For a braid: Hold one end of the roll and place your knift about 1/3 of the width of the roll. Cut a strip down the length of the dough. Then move over 1/3 width of dough and cut another strip. You should have 3 strips of dough that are all connected at the top. Braid the dough and tuck in the ends once you get to the end of the braiding. Place braid onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet.

6b. For cinnamon rolls, cut into 1-inch slices and place 1/2 inch apart onto a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.

7. Proof for 30 minutes (20 minutes if cutting into rolls).

8. Bake at 380 F until golden brown, about 10-12 minutes.

9. Cool for 1 minute, then brush with softened butter.

10. Cool for 5 minutes and then glaze with topping of choice.

Turkey Sloppy Joes

September 19th, 2010

Sloppy Joes are something that I never think of to make, but I absolutely love to eat. It is probably best that I only eat these once every few months, because I might tire of eating them and then I wouldn’t be excited to make or eat them, and that would just be sad. I have made them enough times to be able to tweak recipes until they have satisfied both mine and Tommy’s food-snobbery. I took this recipe and ended up with just a few changes to make what I would consider the tastiest sloppy joe.

I like using ground turkey because, for some reason, it makes me feel like I’m making the recipe healthier than by using ground beef. Also, whenever Tommy sees ground beef cooking in a pan, he gets grossed out. I think that ground turkey cooking in a pan looks the same, but somehow the turkey doesn’t gross him out. At some point (I think it was an accident), Tommy and I realized that we really like the addition of beans in our sloppy joes (kidney and pinto work best). And I also use the same amount of vegetables in the recipe, but only use about half of the amount of ground turkey (because you can only buy them in ~1.25-lb packages at the store). I like having more vegetables than meat. So here’s the Vernieri Family sloppy Joe recipe. We eat them on hamburger buns, with a thick slice of cheddar.

Sloppy Joes, Vernieri-style

Ingredients
3 Tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 carrot, diced
1 red bell pepper, chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 1/2 lb ground turkey
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp black pepper
1 (14-oz) can diced tomatoes
1/2 cup ketchup
2 Tbsp molasses
2 Tbsp cider vinegar
1 1/2 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

Preparation
1. Heat oil in a large pan over medium heat until hot, then sauté onion, carrot, bell pepper, and garlic, stirring occasionally, until golden, 10 to 12 minutes.

2. Add turkey and sauté, stirring occasionally and breaking up large lumps with a wooden spoon, until meat is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in salt and pepper.

3. Purée tomatoes with juice, ketchup, molasses, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce in a blender until smooth.

4. Add the tomato mixture and beans to the turkey and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened, 25 to 30 minutes.

5. Serve with hamburger buns and a thick slice of cheddar.

Lemon Panna Cotta

September 6th, 2010

I decided to write about the Mextoberfest cake that I made, and realized that I had a few unpublished drafts hanging out on my dashboard. The dashboard says that the last time I edited this post was September 2009. Whoops! And this isn’t the only draft in my dashboard either.

Panna Cotta is one of my favorite desserts to make and eat. It is soft, creamy, a little sweet, and perfectly rich. It is like a pudding, but more decadent. We ate it at a restaurant once and it was garnished with a strawberry with some Vincotto drizzled on top. It was heavenly, so we bought some Vincotto while we were in New York (couldn’t find any here in Charleston) and then I recreated the dish.

I’ve also made panna cotta with honey poured into the ramekins before the panna cotta is poured in, so that the honey is on top once the panna cotta is inverted onto a plate. The dark speckles are the vanilla beans that sunk to the bottom of the ramekin. I like it just as much as the lemon panna cotta, except that it looks pretty ugly.

Lemon Panna Cotta

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/4 cup sugar
zest of 2 lemons
juice of 2 lemons
1 1/4 gelatin leaves

Preparation
Mix together zest and sugar with fingers until zest has been mixed in well with the sugar.  Add the sugar and zest to a small saucepan with the heavy cream.  Add the juice and bring to a simmer.

Meanwhile, soak the gelatin leaves in cold water for about 4 minutes.  Strain the heavy cream mixture into another bowl.  Squeeze out the excess water on the gelatin leaves, mix gelatin in with the cream mixture.  Pour into ramekins and chill for the day.

To serve, use a sharp knife to cut around the edges of the ramekin. Then invert the ramekin onto a plate and wiggle a little bit until the panna cotta falls out onto the plate. Garnish with a strawberry, or whatever you think looks pretty.

Mexican Hot Chocolate Cake

September 6th, 2010

One of my friends has been talking about a Mexican-themed party that he threw in college, and they called it Mextoberfest. The only requirement for entry was that you had to be wearing a sombrero. Other than that, it was just a party with some Mexican eats and beer pong. He has been talking about hosting a Mextoberfest for all of his coworkers, who didn’t know him in college and therefore, didn’t get to experience Mextoberfest. After about a year of talking about hosting it, I finally demanded that he have Mextoberfest right away, and so he did.

I decided to play around with Mexican chocolate and make some sort of cake with it. I ended up combining a cake, buttercream and ganache from 2 different recipes to create my own version of a Mexican Hot Chocolate cake. It ended up being very tall (4 cake layers with buttercream separating each of them), and very flavorful. Tommy declared it my best cake yet. It is called Mexican hot chocolate because the “Mexican chocolate” that can be bought is used as a hot chocolate mix. It comes in hexagon-shaped chocolate disks that have other spices added in (cinnamon and cayenne of some sort as far as I can tell).

I also thought the cake was excellent, but if (and when) I make it again, I would change a few things:

  • The Mexican chocolate was not good to use in the ganache. The ganache never set like it was supposed to. And because it didn’t set up, I had to use it as a pourable glaze for the cake instead of spreading it in between the cake layers. The original cake was supposed to be iced in the buttercream, with the cake layers being separated by the ganache. I think I liked using the buttercream for the layering and the ganache as the outside coating though, I just wished the ganache would have set up correctly. Next time I would just use plain chocolate. As you can see from the picture, the ganache was runny after slicing into the cake too. No amount of refrigeration was going to harden this ganache.
  • The buttercream icing was supposed to be a Swiss buttercream frosting. But I didn’t want to deal with the egg whites, so I just turned it into a regular buttercream (powdered sugar and butter). I’d probably try the Swiss buttercream in the future though, because I like how soft and fluffy Swiss and Italian buttercreams are.
  • I also ran out of powdered sugar for the buttercream. With time running out before the party started, I had no choice but to attempt to make my own powdered sugar by putting granulated sugar into the blender. It worked a little bit, but not all the way, so my buttercream definitely had a slight sugary crunch to it. Tommy said that he liked the added crunch while eating his slice of cake, but I think he just had pity on me that I ran out of powdered sugar.

I really liked the flavor of the cake, I don’t think I’ve ever had cinnamon in a cake before, other than breakfast-related cake like coffee cake. The cake seemed very moist, which is how I like it. I didn’t have any of the leftover cake that was brought into Tommy’s work after the party, so I’m not sure if it retained the moisture days after it was made or not.

The Cake (Cinnamon Vanilla):

Ingredients
2 sticks butter
2 cups sugar
4 large eggs
3 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Preparation
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a medium bowl sift together flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt.

Cream the butter in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Add sugar and continue to mix until fully incorporated and it is light and fluffy, about 4 minutes.

Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.

Combine milk and vanilla. Add portions of the flour mixture and milk mixture to the electric mixer, alternating, starting and ending with flour. Pour evenly into 2 buttered and floured 9-inch cake pans.

Bake for 40 minutes or until golden. The cake should pull away from the side and spring back to the touch.

Mexican Hot Chocolate Buttercream

Ingredients
2 sticks butter, softened
2 cups powdered sugar
4 ounces white chocolate, melted and cooled
3.1 ounce disk Mexican choclate, melted and cooled

Preparation
Cream the butter and sugar. Add the chocolates. Add more sugar if sweeter frosting is desired.

The Ganache Topping

Ingredients
1 cup heavy whipping cream
2 (3.1-ounce) disks Mexican chocolate, finely chopped (I would just use bittersweet chocolate next time)
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon light corn syrup

Preparation
Heat the cream in a small saucepan just until simmering.

Place the chopped Mexican chocolate and unsweetened chocolate in a bowl. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate. Let stand for a few minutes, then gently whisk until the chocolate has melted. Stir in the butter until melted, then add the corn syrup. Refrigerate for 20 to 30 minutes until stiff enough to spread. With a spatula, beat the ganache to make it smooth and spreadable.

The Summer of Pies (and cakes)

June 13th, 2010

After my baking class ended this semester, I wanted to make sure that I kept on baking. I really liked knowing that every Wednesday, I would be baking for 5.5 hours. I always looked forward to Wednesdays. I decided that I wanted to become as good as Brian at pie-making, so I named this summer “The Summer of Pies (and cakes)”. The cakes are thrown in there because I need to start developing some awesome cake flavors for Tommy’s sister’s wedding cake.

Every week I’d like to make a pie (or cake). I think that sometimes I will make the same pie over again, when it doesn’t turn out quite right the first time. So far I’ve made 3 pies and 1.5 cakes:

  • Black and White Chocolate Cake, from the Baking From My Home to Yours cookbook by Dorie Greenspan. I learned how to cut a cake into even layers in class this semester. I turned my spice dolly into a temporary turntable so that I could properly cut the cakes into 4 thin layers. The cake was very even, but I clearly need to work on my piping skills.
  • A sponge cake that fell A LOT. So much that I couldn’t possibly use it to make a layer cake, so I chopped it up and turned it into a Strawberry Lemon Curd Trifle. Because of the failure, I’m only counting this as 1/2 of a cake. This was my first trifle and it was a major sucess! I learned that when making a sponge cake (if you have more than one cake pan full of batter to bake as I did), try to position the 2 pans so that they do not need to be rotated in the oven. Rotating them made mine fall, and they never recovered.
  • A strawberry-rhubarb pie. It turned out runny but delicious.
  • A peach-raspberry pie. It turned out runny but delicious. I’m not sure why my pies are runny. The internet says that I don’t bake it long enough, or I don’t wait long enough for it to cool down. But both the strawberry and peach pies were still runny after spending the night in the refrigerator, so I’m going to try the peach pie again soon and bake it longer. And maybe try to sweat the peaches so that they aren’t so liquidy? I don’t know if I can do that. The peaches for this pie sat in a colander for about 30 minutes before I combined them with the sugar/cornstarch mixture, so I’m not sure what else I can do.
  • An apple-cranberry pie with a struessel topping. I precooked the crust and the filling, so I am very optimistic that this one will not be runny. I’m not allowed to eat it until later tonight, so I don’t know how this one will end up. With cranberries in the pie though, it seems like vanilla ice cream should be eaten with a slice of this pie. The partially baked crust didn’t seem to bake up so well. And when I (slowly and carefully) lifted up the weighted foil after baking, some of the bottom came up with the foil, so I had to do some patching on the bottom. I’m not sure why the sides didn’t stay up. Even though it looks ugly, I’m sure it will taste just fine.

So far I’ve been working with an all-shortening crust. I like that it comes out super-flaky, and I feel that I have a pretty good grasp on the crust-rolling-out-preparation. I’d like to experiment and use some combination of butter/shortening (butter gives it more flavor but less flakiness) or a lard crust (which gives it flavor AND flakiness). I’m not sure that I can ever remember eating a crust made from lard. I’m not even sure where to buy lard. I think I can feel my arteries hardening just talking about lard.

Pate A Choux

May 17th, 2010

I have already posted once about éclairs. But those didn’t turn out so well. They were thin, most of them fell after taking them out of the oven, and they tasted very eggy, a taste that neither Tommy or I like. I tried them one more time after that and got the same result.

When I saw that pate a choux (the dough that is used to make eclairs) were on the syllabus for the baking class that I took this past semester, I got very excited. I was hoping that I would be taught the right way to make the batter, and hopefully learn what I was doing wrong the few times before trying to make eclairs. The biggest problem seemed to be that they always deflated after taking them out of the oven, no matter how long I baked them.

After learning how to make pate a choux in class, I think the three things that I was doing wrong were:

  1. Adding the eggs too quickly, and probably too many. I was unsure how to tell when I had enough eggs but not too much, as this was always stressed in the recipes/instructions that I read as being a critical element.
  2. Using the wrong recipe. I’m sure if I went back and tried the recipe I was using, I’d have success (especially now that I know how to tell when I’ve added enough egg). But this combination and quantity of ingredients worked for me, so that’s what I’ll stick with.
  3. Piping wrong. Probably not wrong, but I like the short/fat eclairs more than the long skinny ones, and I didn’t know how to pipe them fat.

I also learned that I don’t need to mix in the eggs with a mixer, as most of the recipes on the internet instruct you to do. Stirring in the eggs doesn’t require THAT much effort without a mixer… at least I don’t think so. Plus it makes it a one-pot recipe instead of a 2-pot + 1 paddle recipe.

So here is the recipe that seems to work for me. My teacher told me that you can use water or milk, but I used milk and that’s what I will stick with. Milk causes the pate a choux to brown faster and darker than using water, and the milk will also keep the pate a choux on the soft side after it has baked and cooled. If you want crisper eclairs, then use the water. Also, you can use butter or vegetable oil for the fat, but our class used vegetable oil because it is cheaper. So again, the oil worked so that’s what I’ll use forever.

Pate a choux

Ingredients
8 oz milk
4 oz vegetable or canola oil
1/2 tsp salt

5 1/2 oz bread flour

8 oz eggs (4 large eggs) – beaten

Preparation
Add the milk, oil and salt in a sauce pan and bring to a simmer. As soon as it starts to simmer, add the flour all at once. While still on the heat, stir in the flour with a wooden spoon. The dough will form a ball and will look a little like play-do. Continue to stir on the heat until a light film on the bottom of the pan forms. This will only take 2-3 minutes from the time you add the flour. Remove from the heat and cool the mixture for about a minute (so that the eggs do not cook when you begin to add them).

Still using the wooden spoon, add the eggs one by one. After each egg addition, the dough will become runny at first, but continuous stirring with the wooden spoon will eventually cause the batter to come back together. Once this happens, you can add the next egg. When you get close to the end, add eggs by the 1/2 egg portion so that you don’t add too much egg. The dough is ready when you put a small glob between your pointer finger and thumb and pull your fingers apart. The dough should stay together until your fingers are about an inch apart. If the dough does not stick together, add more eggs. I’m not sure what it looks like if you add too many eggs, I think that it is just really runny.

Put the dough into a piping bag and pipe into the shape of your choice. To pipe them fat, you have to begin squeezing out the dough while not moving the bag. The dough will begin to spread out width-wise, at which point you can very slowly start to move the piping bag along the length.  The first few times I did this, my hand was shaky and I ended up with little ridges along the length of my dough, but the ridges went away during the baking process. When you finish piping an eclair, you will be left with a not-so-smooth part at the end. If you bake it like this, it will turn into a very sharp point. After piping out all of the eclairs, dip your finger in water and pat down the rough ends to smooth them out before baking.

And if you mess up, you can scrap the dough up and put it back into the bowl, and then back into the piping bag for a second chance.

Savory Chard and Mushroom Bread Pudding

May 4th, 2010

I’ve only had one other savory bread pudding that I can remember, and I loved every bite of it. That was a few years ago, and Tommy made it. I’m not sure why I don’t make them more often, but it isn’t something that I think of when looking for dinner options. Tonight I needed to use up some aging Swiss Chard from the Farmer’s Market. I was looking for a simple but flavorful and quick sauteing of some sort, because we already have plenty of leftovers in the house for lunch and dinner over the next few days.

I came across this recipe and realized that I had everything already except for 3 eggs instead of 4, and cheddar cheese instead of Swiss cheese. I also realized that this wasn’t the quick side dish that I was looking for, but the night was young and Tommy was working late and it was raining outside and I was bored. My loaf of bread that was going stale was a rosemary-something-loaf that we used for paninis this weekend, so I felt this was a perfect match. And I’m happy to have had some dried porcini mushrooms in the pantry. Since the bread already had plenty of rosemary flavor, I did not add the rosemary that the recipe called for. It came together in about 30 minutes, then took 50 minutes to bake.

I also drank (and enjoyed) some left over Verdicchio both while making and eating the bread pudding. And now we have leftovers to last through Friday.