When I saw that pate a choux (the dough that is used to make eclairs) were on the syllabus for the baking class that I took this past semester, I got very excited. I was hoping that I would be taught the right way to make the batter, and hopefully learn what I was doing wrong the few times before trying to make eclairs. The biggest problem seemed to be that they always deflated after taking them out of the oven, no matter how long I baked them.

After learning how to make pate a choux in class, I think the three things that I was doing wrong were:

1. Adding the eggs too quickly, and probably too many. I was unsure how to tell when I had enough eggs but not too much, as this was always stressed in the recipes/instructions that I read as being a critical element.
2. Using the wrong recipe. I’m sure if I went back and tried the recipe I was using, I’d have success (especially now that I know how to tell when I’ve added enough egg). But this combination and quantity of ingredients worked for me, so that’s what I’ll stick with.
3. Piping wrong. Probably not wrong, but I like the short/fat eclairs more than the long skinny ones, and I didn’t know how to pipe them fat.

I also learned that I don’t need to mix in the eggs with a mixer, as most of the recipes on the internet instruct you to do. Stirring in the eggs doesn’t require THAT much effort without a mixer… at least I don’t think so. Plus it makes it a one-pot recipe instead of a 2-pot + 1 paddle recipe.

So here is the recipe that seems to work for me. My teacher told me that you can use water or milk, but I used milk and that’s what I will stick with. Milk causes the pate a choux to brown faster and darker than using water, and the milk will also keep the pate a choux on the soft side after it has baked and cooled. If you want crisper eclairs, then use the water. Also, you can use butter or vegetable oil for the fat, but our class used vegetable oil because it is cheaper. So again, the oil worked so that’s what I’ll use forever.

Pate a choux

Ingredients
8 oz milk
4 oz vegetable or canola oil
1/2 tsp salt

5 1/2 oz bread flour

8 oz eggs (4 large eggs) – beaten

Preparation
Add the milk, oil and salt in a sauce pan and bring to a simmer. As soon as it starts to simmer, add the flour all at once. While still on the heat, stir in the flour with a wooden spoon. The dough will form a ball and will look a little like play-do. Continue to stir on the heat until a light film on the bottom of the pan forms. This will only take 2-3 minutes from the time you add the flour. Remove from the heat and cool the mixture for about a minute (so that the eggs do not cook when you begin to add them).

Still using the wooden spoon, add the eggs one by one. After each egg addition, the dough will become runny at first, but continuous stirring with the wooden spoon will eventually cause the batter to come back together. Once this happens, you can add the next egg. When you get close to the end, add eggs by the 1/2 egg portion so that you don’t add too much egg. The dough is ready when you put a small glob between your pointer finger and thumb and pull your fingers apart. The dough should stay together until your fingers are about an inch apart. If the dough does not stick together, add more eggs. I’m not sure what it looks like if you add too many eggs, I think that it is just really runny.

Put the dough into a piping bag and pipe into the shape of your choice. To pipe them fat, you have to begin squeezing out the dough while not moving the bag. The dough will begin to spread out width-wise, at which point you can very slowly start to move the piping bag along the length.  The first few times I did this, my hand was shaky and I ended up with little ridges along the length of my dough, but the ridges went away during the baking process. When you finish piping an eclair, you will be left with a not-so-smooth part at the end. If you bake it like this, it will turn into a very sharp point. After piping out all of the eclairs, dip your finger in water and pat down the rough ends to smooth them out before baking.

And if you mess up, you can scrap the dough up and put it back into the bowl, and then back into the piping bag for a second chance.

Tommy had sent me this recipe a few weeks ago after watching Bobby Flay make it on Throwdown.  I was asleep when he was watching it, so all I had to go on was a recipe.  The first thing that I noticed about it was that the cake was covered in genache, instead of the ooey gooey caramel-nut-coconut filling that coats every German chocolate cake I have seen in the past, like this one.

There were a lot of ingredients to buy for this cake, all of which I bought here and then transported up to Wilmington.   I know where to find everything and in what store here, and I didn’t want to bother with the hastle of not being able to find specific ingredients (such as goat milk, dutch-processed cocoa powder, and heavy cream).  I’m very picky about my heavy cream.

On Saturday morning while watching the Tour de France, I started making the cake.  I realized that Bobby Flay’s directions did not include a step to incorporate the flour mixture into the batter.   The directions for the cake seemed a little weird anyway, so I made the cake my way, as demonstrated in the instructions below.  The cakes turned out nice and tall and firm enough to be able to cut them in half and layer without any disasters.  I had to add cornstarch at the end of the filling-making process, because it just didn’t thicken to a spreadable consistency on it’s own.  This step is also included in my version of the instructions below.

The cake was the best chocolate cake I have made yet, and I was very pleased by both the chocolate cake on its own and in combination with the filling.  Tommy has already requested that I make this cake again sometime soon.  The cake was great the same day it was made, but was even better for breakfast the next morning after it had some time to sit in the refrigerator.  I also found that, while the coconut-whipped cream was very very tasty, I didn’t prefer to eat it with my cake.  The cake held up just fine by itself.

German Chocolate Cake

Cake

Ingredients
2 ¼ cups AP flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoons fine salt
1 ½ cups strongly brewed black coffee, at room temperature
1 ½ cups buttermilk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
12 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons good quality Dutch process cocoa powder
1 ½ cups muscavado light brown sugar
1 ½ cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs

Preparation
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter two 9-inch cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper.

Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl.

In another bowl, add the coffee, buttermilk, and vanilla extract and set aside.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat (or in the microwave). Add the butter to the bowl of your mixer and slowly mix in (using the wire whisk) the cocoa powder.  Mix for about a minute, until the cocoa has been incorporated into the butter.  Add the sugars and mix on medium speed until the sugars are dissolved. Add the eggs one at a time, waiting until each egg is incorporated before adding the next.  Once all of the eggs have been incorporated, add 1/3 of the coffee/buttermilk mixture and 1/3 of the flour mixture.  Do not add the next until the first addition is fully incorporated.  Repeat until all of the wet ingredients and the flour has been incorporate in alternating batches.

Divide the batter evenly between the 2 pans and bake on the middle rack until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with a few moist crumbs attached, about 42 minutes.  My cakes took about 51 minutes to bake.  They went from a jiggly center to a firm center in about 2-minutes’ time, so make sure that you carefully watch the cakes after the 40-minute mark until they are done.  Let them cool in the pans on a baking rack for 20 minutes. Then invert the cakes onto the baking rack and let cool for at least 1 hour before frosting.

Coconut Filling

Ingredients
2 cups whole milk
1 ¾ cup unsweetened coconut milk
1 cup goats’ milk
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon pure cane sugar
¼ cup water
½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1/4 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 ¼ cups sweetened coconut
1 ¼ cups toasted coarsely chopped pecans

Preparation
Bring the milk, coconut milk and goat’s milk to a simmer over low heat in a small saucepan.  Add the vanilla bean to the milk mixture while heating it up (keep the seeds out, they will go in later).   Keep warm while you prepare the caramel.

Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan over high heat and cook (do not stir) until deep amber brown color.   Remove the vanilla bean from the milk mixture, then slowly whisk in the milk mixture and continue whisking until smooth; add the vanilla seeds and corn syrup. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the sauce is reduced by half and is the consistency of a caramel sauce, about 55 minutes.   If your sauce does not thicken once the mixture has reduced by half, turn up the heat a little so that the mixture is between a simmer and a boil.  Add no more than 1/4 cup of cornstarch to the mixture and stir with the wooden spoon until thick.

Once the sauce is thick, remove from the heat and whisk in the cold butter, vanilla extract, and  salt and whisk until combined. Transfer the sauce to a medium bowl and stir in the pecans and coconut. Let the frosting cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally before frosting the cake.

Coconut Whipped Cream

Ingredients
1 ½ cups cold heavy cream
¼ cup Cocoa Lopez (coconut cream, which can be found in a can usually on the soda isle with all of the other non-alcoholic mixer ingredients like Margareta mix)
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Preparation
Combine heavy cream, coconut milk, sugar and vanilla in a mixer and mix until soft peaks form.

Ganache

Ingredients
8 ounces heavy cream
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons light corn syrup

Preparation
Bring cream to a simmer. Place chocolate in a medium bowl, add hot cream and corn syrup and let sit for 30 seconds. Gently whisk until smooth. Let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes before pouring over the cake.

Bringing it all together
Slice each cake in half horizontally. Place one cake layer on a cake round or platter and spread 1/3 of the filling evenly over the top, repeat to make 3 layers and top with the remaining cake layer, top side up. Pour the chocolate ganache over the cake, let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before slicing.  Slice cake, top with a dollop of whipped cream.

I keep saying next time because I really want to make these again. Despite the eggy choux and the fact that 90% of them flattened out so that I couldn’t fill them unless I sliced them in half, they were pretty good. The internet says that I should have kept them in the oven after baking (turn oven off and leave door open) so that they won’t deflate when I take them out. Tommy and I didn’t have a problem eating most of them over the weekend. They only took about 2 hours to make, start to finish including cleaning all of the dishes. Next time I make them, they won’t be eggy and they will look beautiful!

Eclairs

Ingredients
Cream Puff Dough (see below for recipe), fresh and still warm
Pastry Cream of choice
Chocolate Glaze

1) Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Divide the oven into thirds by positioning the racks in the upper and lower half of the oven. Line two baking sheets with waxed or parchment paper.

2) Fill a large pastry bag fitted with a 2/3 (2cm) plain tip nozzle with the warm cream puff dough. Pipe the dough onto the baking sheets in long, 4 to 41/2 inches (about 11 cm) chubby fingers. Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) space in between each dough strip to allow them room to puff. The dough should give you enough to pipe 20-24 éclairs.

3) Slide both the baking sheets into the oven and bake for 12 minutes. After the éclairs have been in the oven for a total of 12 minutes, rotate the sheets top to bottom and front to back. Continue baking for a further 8 minutes or until the éclairs are puffed, golden and firm. The total baking time should be approximately 20 minutes.

4) Using a small, sharp knife, cut a small slit in each eclair to let the steam out. Let cool for a few minutes before filling and icing.

5) Slice the éclairs horizontally, using a serrated knife and a gently sawing motion. Set aside the bottoms and place the tops on a rack over a piece of parchment paper (or you can poke a hole in them and fill with pastry cream instead of slicing them into two pieces).

6) Fill the eclairs with the pastry cream, then dip the eclairs (or eclair tops if you have cut them in half) down into the chocolate glaze. The glaze should be barely warm to the touch (between 95 – 104 degrees F or 35 – 40 degrees C, as measured on an instant read thermometer).

Pierre Hermé’s Cream Puff Dough
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé

Ingredients
• ½ cup (125g) whole milk
• ½ cup (125g) water
• 1 stick (4 ounces; 115g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• ¼ teaspoon sugar
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature

Preparation
1) In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to the
boil.

2) Once the mixture is at a rolling boil, add all of the flour at once, reduce the heat to medium and start to stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon. The dough comes together very quickly. Do not worry if a slight crust forms at the bottom of the pan, it’s supposed to. You need to carry on stirring for a further 2-3 minutes to dry the dough. After this time the dough will be very soft and smooth.

3) Transfer the dough into a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using your hand mixer or if you still have the energy, continue by hand. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each egg has been added to incorporate it into the dough. You will notice that after you have added the first egg, the dough will separate, once again do not worry. As you keep working the dough, it will come back all together again by the time you have added the third egg. In the end the dough should be thick and shiny and when lifted it should fall back into the bowl in a ribbon.

4) The dough should be still warm. It is now ready to be used for the éclairs as directed above.

Notes:
1) Once the dough is made you need to shape it immediately.

2) You can pipe the dough and the freeze it. Simply pipe the dough onto parchment-lined baking sheets and slide the sheets into the freezer. Once the dough is completely frozen, transfer the piped shapes into freezer bags. They can be kept in the freezer for up to a month.

Pastry Cream
I used a pastry cream from a cookbook that I was borrowing from the library. I have since returned the book, and forgot to write down the recipe. Basically, any pastry cream (or vanilla pudding) will work.

Chocolate Glaze
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé

Ingredients
• 1/3 cup (80g) heavy cream
• 3½ oz (100g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 4 tsp (20 g) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, at room temperature
• 7 tbsp (110 g) Chocolate Sauce (recipe below), warm or at room temperature

Preparation
1)In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly begin to add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon or spatula.

2) Stirring gently, stir in the butter, piece by piece followed by the chocolate sauce.

Notes:
1) If the chocolate glaze is too cool (i.e. not liquid enough) you may heat it briefly? in the microwave or over a double boiler. A double boiler is basically a bowl sitting over (not touching) simmering water.

Chocolate Sauce
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé

Ingredients
• 4½ oz (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 1 cup (250 g) water
• ½ cup (125 g) crème fraîche, or heavy cream
• 1/3 cup (70 g) sugar

Preparation
1) Place all the ingredients into a heavy?bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure to stir constantly. Then reduce the heat to low and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens.

2) It may take 10?15 minutes for the sauce to thicken, but you will know when it is done when it coats the back of your spoon.